Are there different styles of a/c Compressor?

[Baja_CNY]

Hello Everyone

I need a new a/c compressor and
I'm unsure what "style" I have.

After market sites list "DKV14G Style"
compressor, which implies there is
more than one style.

Is there more than one style, or are
they all DKV14G? I don't see any
other choice, so it seems like DKV14G
is the only style. But if it is the
only style, then why list it at all?

I looked at the sticker on the
compressor (attached) hoping that
the numbers would help me find
the style - no luck. Neither
of the numbers have any hits on
the major search engines.

I was hoping maybe one of the
online Subaru sites where the
VIN can be entered would list
the style. No luck here either.
Subaru lists the part number as 73111AE09B
and mine is . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73110AE09B

Why am I showing the part numbers?
The Subaru 73111AE09B is linked on
after market sites to DKV14G Style.

Does the 73111 vs 73110 make any
difference to the style?

I need to order a compressor, but
want to feel sure I'm ordering the
correct one.

First Pic is the underhood sticker
Second Pic is the compressor label

I hope someone can help?

Thanks . . . . Brian



2006 Baja, Non-Turbo, Automatic

[joedavex]

I'm not sure if there are any differences, all the ones I've seen seem to look identical and mount identically (5 Bajas and 1 OBW currently in fleet).
I see you're in NY, I'm in NW CT, I've got an extra AC compressor that came with an engine I put in the OBW earlier this year, you are welcome to it if you want to take the drive out.
What is the problem with your compressor that you are going to change it?
Joe

[Baja_CNY]

Joe

Thanks so much for the information and
your generous offer. I appreciate it.

I have already ordered a new one after
finding my exact codes in the pics of
one compressor.

My compressor would work intermittently
and is likely the clutch. Also varying high
side pressures after a full charge.

I'm in the process of installing it right now,
along with a new expansion valve and
receiver dryer.

Thanks again . . . . Brian

[ZUBAJA]

Little late but a common A/C problem on these, and many Subarus is excessive air gap in the A/C clutch. Fix is often remove outer clutch plate (sometimes slips right off after bolt removal, sometimes must be pulled), remove a shim washer, reinstall clutch plate and bolt. I have fixed several Subies this way. Dennis

[Baja_CNY]

Thanks for your help Dennis.

I will keep that in mind for the future.

Brian

[Guacamole]

Little late but a common A/C problem on these, and many Subarus is excessive air gap in the A/C clutch. Fix is often remove outer clutch plate (sometimes slips right off after bolt removal, sometimes must be pulled), remove a shim washer, reinstall clutch plate and bolt. I have fixed several Subies this way. Dennis

Necromancing this thread.
Dennis, have you ever had a clutch that was hard to get off (snapped a bolt pressing this thing off), and won't seat back in with or WITHOUT the shims, and won't go any further in with a minimum gap of 1.02mm?
I'm at the point where I'm about to just throw the old clutch in the garbage and slap a brand new on on there because this one just won't go and I'm afraid of snapping off the center bolt and not just a press bolt.
Compressor still spins a few rotations if I give the clutch a good whack with a hammer, so the magnet inside is good.

[ZUBAJA]

I have had a couple that required a puller (modified steering wheel puller) to remove. None were ever THAT difficult though. You may be looking at replacing the whole compressor if the threads or splines are damaged. Dennis

[Guacamole]

Oh pulling it was not really an issue- the pre-threaded hole to press the thing off was the bolt that snapped (cheap bolts from local hardware store).
The videos just make it seem so easy. Splines don't look damaged, and neither do the threads. I invested in a Powerbuilt compressor kit so hopefully it goes swell now.
https://youtu.be/7ptUvOv_AfY

[ZUBAJA]

So I was trying to figure out how you broke the (a) bolt in the "pre-threaded hole" (some compressor clutch plates have a large, about 19mm tapped hole down the center for pulling the plate "how did he break a bolt THAT big?"). After watching the video, I understand now. While I did use the 3 holes, I also used the aforementioned steering wheel puller and pulled against a bolt threaded into the compressor shaft. I did use hardened bolts as I was concerned about threads stripping. I didn't originally know what was behind the plate, so threading longer bolts wasn't an option I considered (I've destroyed a few clutches in the past as part of a "learning experience"). I've also taken a couple of compressors completely apart to learn more about them. Dennis

[Guacamole]

Well the center bolt snapped off inside the clutch shaft. Luckily there's enough to thread a nut on to the end of it, but it's now time for an entirely new compressor.

[ZUBAJA]

If you haven't ordered the new compressor yet, you might get lucky and thread the nut on the end, peen any exposed threads, and back the nut and broken bolt out of the shaft. Often a few careful hammer taps help loosen frozen threads. Dennis

[Baja_CNY]

I got a new compressor for $137.

They are inexpensive.

[ZUBAJA]

That's a good price. For some people, it's not so much the price as it is the know-how of replacing a compressor - how much oil to add, evacuation of refrigerant, suction down evacuation, recharging. And if it were a compressor FAILURE, the condenser should also be replaced (usually). Dennis