CV Boot Failure

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canuck37
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CV Boot Failure

Post by canuck37 »

OK, I know there has been a lot of discussion on this forum and others regarding CV boot failure. What I am looking for is some comments on repair/replacement that a non-mechanic type (me) can digest!

This AM, I noticed that the passenger side CV boot was leaking, and grease was getting onto the exhaust (which caused the smell that originally got me checking things out).

I need to know whether to replace just the boot itself (is that even an option?) or the whole boot/axle assembly. Also, I am a big fan of using OEM Subaru parts usually, so am thinking that would be the best way to go. I'm also thinking I should replace both of them at this time, even though the driver's side one looks OK at this point.

My mechanic said it should be OK to drive the vehicle around town but not long drives, until he can get it fixed (his concern was both the chance of the grease catching fire on a long drive, and/or axle failure itself if all the grease drained out). I had planned a road trip in the next 2 weeks, but that will go on hold...

Baja is a 2003, with 87k miles and well cared for. Any thoughts on how I should approach this?
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mikenmel08
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Re: CV Boot Failure

Post by mikenmel08 »

Replacing them both at the Same time is usually the smartest way too go...... Can't tell you how many times I've replaced just one on a customers car and they would be back within a month with the other one slinging grease also..... As far as changing just the boot or the whole axle that is up to you...... Labor wise it is much easier to just replace the entire assembly, trying to change those boots can be a real headache.
Acro2pilot
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Re: CV Boot Failure

Post by Acro2pilot »

I second just replacing the whole half shaft, it takes less time and you have new joints, grease, and new boots. AND you get a new castle nut, cotter pin, and roll pin.

Procedure (mine) is pound out the inner roll pin. Jack up vehicle and pull the wheel. Undo the two bolts attaching the strut to the knuckle. Pull the inner joint off the tranny stub axle, then use a piece of wood to cushion the threads and pound the axle out. Slip the new axle in and reverse the process using the nut to draw the axle into the hub, line up the inboard joint and hammer in the roll pin, then bolt the strut back in place. To keep alignment you can spray a bit of silver paint where the strut meets the hub to create a "shadow". In a perfect world you should take it in for an alignment but every time I have it has been dead on.
canuck37
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Re: CV Boot Failure

Post by canuck37 »

Acro2pilot wrote:I second just replacing the whole half shaft, it takes less time and you have new joints, grease, and new boots. AND you get a new castle nut, cotter pin, and roll pin.

Procedure (mine) is pound out the inner roll pin. Jack up vehicle and pull the wheel. Undo the two bolts attaching the strut to the knuckle. Pull the inner joint off the tranny stub axle, then use a piece of wood to cushion the threads and pound the axle out. Slip the new axle in and reverse the process using the nut to draw the axle into the hub, line up the inboard joint and hammer in the roll pin, then bolt the strut back in place. To keep alignment you can spray a bit of silver paint where the strut meets the hub to create a "shadow". In a perfect world you should take it in for an alignment but every time I have it has been dead on.

Went ahead and had the whole axle and boot assembly replaced with OEM Subaru parts. Wound up costing about $300 all in which I feel is a reasonable price. It was only about $50 more to get the entire axle assembly as opposed to just doing the boots. Back in business!
Rizzo
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Re: CV Boot Failure

Post by Rizzo »

Reboot that old one and save it.

Taking one apart is actually pretty easy, then clean it up, and put new boots and grease on it.

You will need a tool to pull the clamps tight.

There are 3 billion videos out there that show you how.

If you decide to throw away your old Axle, SELL IT TO ME! :D
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jseabolt
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Re: CV Boot Failure

Post by jseabolt »

Probably too late to chime in one this one but which boot blew out on yours? Mine was the inner one on the passenger side. I've never seen an inner CV joint boot blow out, it's always been the outer ones that typically fail. I was pulling a 4X8 wagon with a lawnmower on it when this happened. I don't know if that mattered or not.

So you replaced the entire axle just because one boot blew out? I found the boot at Advance Auto for $20. Cost me about $20 but took 6 hours to do the whole job. One of the hardest parts was knocking that pin out due to clearance issues. The high temperature CV joint grease will not come off with typical engine degreaser. I had to take a kerosene soaked rag and actually wipe it off the exhaust system.

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http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/turbofiat/

2003 Subaru Baja
1968 Ford Fairlane 500
1980 Fiat 124 Spider (turbocharged)
1987 Yugo GV (1500 turbocharged)
1981 Trabant 601 S
1987 Citroen 2CV
1977 MGB
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mikenmel08
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Re: CV Boot Failure

Post by mikenmel08 »

$20 in parts and 6 hours of your time?.......I like the $100 in parts and 1 hour of my time.....But I think my time is pretty valuable....lol

Great documentation though
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jseabolt
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Re: CV Boot Failure

Post by jseabolt »

>>>$20 in parts and 6 hours of your time?.......I like the $100 in parts and 1 hour of my time.....But I think my time is pretty valuable....lol

Great documentation though>>>>

That sounds like my O2 sensor replacement. More like $200 in parts and 30 minutes of my time. Mostly jacking the car up and taking the PS wheel off.
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/turbofiat/

2003 Subaru Baja
1968 Ford Fairlane 500
1980 Fiat 124 Spider (turbocharged)
1987 Yugo GV (1500 turbocharged)
1981 Trabant 601 S
1987 Citroen 2CV
1977 MGB
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