Ok, so I purchased my 2003 about 6 months ago and for the most part, I really like it. Fun, sporty and flexible. I thought that it could tow 2400# but noticed today that that's only if the trailer has brakes. If not, its 1000#.
Just wanted to confirm that that's the case with you guys before deciding my next steps. Thanks!
Really, there are 2 options if true... 1) Brakes on the Trailer 2) Different Tow Vehicle.
Towing Dilemma
Moderator: mikenmel08
Re: Towing Dilemma
I towed a 1200# popup with my 2000 Outback with no issues, but was in flat areas of the US. Personally I feel that is the most I would pull without brakes on the trailer. Also depends on how much weight is in the Baja. And of course keep extra space between you and the next car when you know you are not going to stop as quick as the guy in front of you.
2005 Baja Sport
Re: Towing Dilemma
Yeah, I've been towing for years. The going is the easy part...but I've had the 'tail wag the dog' before and that's not fun. Then there's the stopping!
Boat is 1800# with fuel...well shoot.
Boat is 1800# with fuel...well shoot.
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anarchy1024
- Scoobytruck Master
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- Location: Toronto, ON
Re: Towing Dilemma
Is the lower rating due to the brakes overheating and losing its ability to stop the vehicle, or something else? Many people have upgraded the brakes on the Baja with larger ones from other models or aftermarket kits... So that might be a third option.
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kamesama980
- Scoobytruck Master
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Re: Towing Dilemma
As this is a public space, I'll preface this by saying I don't advocate disobeying the stated limits of the vehicle.
Typically, tow rating is the extra rear axle weight minus leverage from the distance of the hitch to the axle. In cases like ours where there are two ratings for braked and unbraked trailers, there is a concern for brake longevity while towing but how big a problem it is depends on where and how you tow. Towing 500lbs might end badly up and down hills in traffic. Towing 3klbs without brakes might go well with low speeds through Kansas.
That being said, towing ratings are VERY subjective. The driver matters as much or more than the vehicle (there are plenty of people that can't manage pushing a shopping cart). Also, it depends on how the rating is derived: The Europeans frequently tow a lot more than we in the US because of how they rate the vehicles: less tongue weight (more tendancy to sway but more trailer for the same axle weight ratings) but lower speed limits while towing (which reduces tendency to sway). We in the US tend to ignore common sense and drive 90mph towing anything so to reduce tendency to sway we run a lot higher tongue weight, so the same axle weight rating gets a much lower trailer total weight.
That and trailer tire speed ratings are why my lil' 2800lb toyota truck rated to tow 3500lbs (with or w/o brakes) that may or may not have been pulling ~6klbs (yes, it did have brakes) @ 60mph was passed by full-size trucks pulling <3klb trailers only to pass them a few hrs later sideways in the ditch. Side note, when I first left on that trip, I didn't have enough tongue weight trailer tried telling me where to go about 45mph so I pulled over, repacked for more tongue weight, and was good to somewhere north of 70.
Again I don't advocate it, just pointing out that tow ratings are determined as much by marketing, lawyers, and insurance agents as physics. If you doubt it, do some reading on the fiasco of full-size pickup tow ratings that's come to light in the last few years.
Typically, tow rating is the extra rear axle weight minus leverage from the distance of the hitch to the axle. In cases like ours where there are two ratings for braked and unbraked trailers, there is a concern for brake longevity while towing but how big a problem it is depends on where and how you tow. Towing 500lbs might end badly up and down hills in traffic. Towing 3klbs without brakes might go well with low speeds through Kansas.
That being said, towing ratings are VERY subjective. The driver matters as much or more than the vehicle (there are plenty of people that can't manage pushing a shopping cart). Also, it depends on how the rating is derived: The Europeans frequently tow a lot more than we in the US because of how they rate the vehicles: less tongue weight (more tendancy to sway but more trailer for the same axle weight ratings) but lower speed limits while towing (which reduces tendency to sway). We in the US tend to ignore common sense and drive 90mph towing anything so to reduce tendency to sway we run a lot higher tongue weight, so the same axle weight rating gets a much lower trailer total weight.
That and trailer tire speed ratings are why my lil' 2800lb toyota truck rated to tow 3500lbs (with or w/o brakes) that may or may not have been pulling ~6klbs (yes, it did have brakes) @ 60mph was passed by full-size trucks pulling <3klb trailers only to pass them a few hrs later sideways in the ditch. Side note, when I first left on that trip, I didn't have enough tongue weight trailer tried telling me where to go about 45mph so I pulled over, repacked for more tongue weight, and was good to somewhere north of 70.
Again I don't advocate it, just pointing out that tow ratings are determined as much by marketing, lawyers, and insurance agents as physics. If you doubt it, do some reading on the fiasco of full-size pickup tow ratings that's come to light in the last few years.
-Russell
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"
03 sport 5mt
05 turbo 5mt vf39 and other STI bits, 3" turbo-back
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"
03 sport 5mt
05 turbo 5mt vf39 and other STI bits, 3" turbo-back
Re: Towing Dilemma
I'm not one for going over the tow ratings...its just not worth it IMO. Could I tow it, yeah, absolutely. Towed far heavier things when I was on the farm without incident. You just have to be smart about it. Cooking the brakes could be avoided, however in a panic stop situation I'd be in trouble, and there would be some freeway towing involved.
I'm pricing out brake kits for the trailer right now.
I'm pricing out brake kits for the trailer right now.
Re: Towing Dilemma
Ok, after the temporary panic has settled...Brake kits are easily under $500 (electric or surge), and will be better (safer) in the long run. My original searches had that price in the $1500 range...not true. So, I've happily backed away from the ledge.
Re: Towing Dilemma
Also to consider is the tranny, auto or manual. If auto, be real careful and definitely install a tranny oil cooler..... Cooking the tranny is far worse than the brakes. Also, check with your insurance agent....if you are in an accident and towing over the specs, good luck with that....just saying.
Re: Towing Dilemma
I don't tow over the specs, so that won't be an issue. Yeah, you don't want to cook the trans, but you have to be able to stop. Still trying to figure out my next steps. Thanks!!canuck37 wrote:Also to consider is the tranny, auto or manual. If auto, be real careful and definitely install a tranny oil cooler..... Cooking the tranny is far worse than the brakes. Also, check with your insurance agent....if you are in an accident and towing over the specs, good luck with that....just saying.
Re: Towing Dilemma
I towed 2700 lbs no problem. Had to tow 90 Acura Integra completely across town. Uphill and up to 40 mph. One point my friend had the brakes on the Integra, and the Baja just towed it was like nothing at all. The Integra couldn't stop the Baja even with the brakes that are on lol. 
The Baja could probably tow a bit more than they rated. But I wouldn't push beyond 3000lb due to the rear suspension. And I do have after market brakes on my Baja. And it's worth the upgrade, stops much quicker.
The Baja could probably tow a bit more than they rated. But I wouldn't push beyond 3000lb due to the rear suspension. And I do have after market brakes on my Baja. And it's worth the upgrade, stops much quicker.