SnowOwl wrote:I know this is a mega bump, but this looks pretty cool. I want to try one. Was a little weary of it lacking a locking mechanism. Has anyone considered installing a type of rotating mechanism, or something along he lines of a door handle? Would love to figure it out.
When I built mine, I did a lot of searching around for a locking mechanism that would actually work without significantly altering the tailgate, etc.. Basically, after talking to locksmiths and police types, I gave up, as they all said if someone wants in, they will get in regardless. I viewed this as more of a weatherproofing effort as opposed to security, so I put a lot into making it as water "resistant" as possible. I had posted the template in AutoCad file format on the forum years ago, but can't find it anymore. I used 1/2" marine grade plywood and vinyl, stainless piano hinge, etc., and it turned out just fine - for less than $100 as I recall now. Plus it was fun to do and a total one-of. If I had to do it again (I gave it away when I bought an ARE cap) I would go for using 3/16" black powdercoated aluminum checker-plate - pricey but lasts forever and looks good! Have fun....
Actually I was more or less wanting to secure my things down in the back when I go flying up the mountain or go off roading to a camp site. I wanted that sense of security knowing my stuff won't go flying all over the road when I'm driving and it gives me an uneasy feeling just thinking about hitting a bump and seeing the cover hover up a little. With that in mind, is it workable ? It would suck royally having my snowboard launch out the back haha. But I'll keep in kind what you said
SnowOwl wrote:I know this is a mega bump, but this looks pretty cool. I want to try one. Was a little weary of it lacking a locking mechanism. Has anyone considered installing a type of rotating mechanism, or something along he lines of a door handle? Would love to figure it out.
When I built mine, I did a lot of searching around for a locking mechanism that would actually work without significantly altering the tailgate, etc.. Basically, after talking to locksmiths and police types, I gave up, as they all said if someone wants in, they will get in regardless. I viewed this as more of a weatherproofing effort as opposed to security, so I put a lot into making it as water "resistant" as possible. I had posted the template in AutoCad file format on the forum years ago, but can't find it anymore. I used 1/2" marine grade plywood and vinyl, stainless piano hinge, etc., and it turned out just fine - for less than $100 as I recall now. Plus it was fun to do and a total one-of. If I had to do it again (I gave it away when I bought an ARE cap) I would go for using 3/16" black powdercoated aluminum checker-plate - pricey but lasts forever and looks good! Have fun....
Actually I was more or less wanting to secure my things down in the back when I go flying up the mountain or go off roading to a camp site. I wanted that sense of security knowing my stuff won't go flying all over the road when I'm driving and it gives me an uneasy feeling just thinking about hitting a bump and seeing the cover hover up a little. With that in mind, is it workable ? It would suck royally having my snowboard launch out the back haha. But I'll keep in kind what you said
What I did to make sure the lid stayed put was screw 4 eye screws into the underside of the top in each corner of the main panel (the one behind the bars doesn't move, if done properly) and then used 4 short bungee cords to hook onto the factory installed attachment points in the corners. Works like a damn and is very secure - and economical!. I never had any issues at all with the lid lifting or whatever.
Another bump for the original article and all the ideas going forward. Thought I'd try it in the spring, or maybe this winter.
Speaking of latches; I thought about a camper door latch. just cut it out to fit and then cut a hole to fit the latch pin in the inside of the tailgate, insert metal reinforcement into the latch pin hole. That way the handle would actually have a lock. Only drawback to that is the camper door latch is countersunk to flush fit with the door. Since the deck lid is lying flat, there would be a source for water to sit. I also thought about installing a drain line in the side of the latch to drain downward inside to the bed drain holes. Can't be rocket science. One question I didn't see answered: How do you attach the deck lid forward slab to the front of the bed? L-brackets, hinges or what?
I attached the smaller "forward" piece that goes up against the back window, using 2 screw eyes attached to the underside, and then a couple of turnbuckles to go down to the tie-downs on the bed. Once the turnbuckles were tightened, there was no leaking or chance of movement of that piece. Since the 2 cover pieces were joined with a stainless piano hinge, using this method to attach the front piece also provided a very secure attachment for the entire cover even if the bungee cords were inadvertently left unattached on the main portion......
Preparing to attempt a similar build to those detailed here.
I still have the original tonneau, but it is in bad shape. I plan to use it to help make the pattern tracing easier. The front plastic part will be easy as I want to keep that part the same dimensions. The back leather part with require some adjustment since it connects outside of the bed.