Brakes

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Guacamole
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Brakes

Post by Guacamole »

Heard the lovely sound of "wom wom wom" this morning while braking at a stop light, sounds like my rear-right brake rotor is warped (thanks MD weather & S.H.A :evil: ). So since it's the original factory brake & the others are all 10-years old I figured I'd just replace all of them while I'm at it with something new. Anyone have any suggestions for good baja-compatible brakes that are relatively cheap (like under $50-per part cheap), or should I just go with OEM to avoid any potential fuss?
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anarchy1024
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Re: Brakes

Post by anarchy1024 »

Guacamole wrote:...Anyone have any suggestions for good baja-compatible brakes that are relatively cheap (like under $50-per part cheap), or should I just go with OEM to avoid any potential fuss?
I just got these for mine:
Rear: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Slot-126-47 ... B000EQ2026
Rear: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Slot-126-47 ... B000EQ202G
Front: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Slot-126-47 ... B000EPZY5C
Front: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Slot-126-47 ... B000EPX50S

Fits perfectly, and seems to be alright so far. I don't have anything to really compare them to, because the rotors they replaced were....
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anarchy1024
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Re: Brakes

Post by anarchy1024 »

These are what the rotors look like mounted.
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Guacamole
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Re: Brakes

Post by Guacamole »

I like the look of those, & they're on sale!
I have basically no mechanic experience but am leaning toward a DIY job since I'm strapped for cash & time right now, I might use these, thanks! Did you have to replace the brake pads for these?
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anarchy1024
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Re: Brakes

Post by anarchy1024 »

I didn't need to replace the brake pads for the rotors specifically... I replaced them because I wanted something better than the basic ones I bought to replace my already-worn pads.

Replacing the rotors/pads isn't difficult, so if you have the tools and a spare afternoon, you should be fine. When removing the rear rotors, you'll need to release the parking brake; the parking brake shoes press against the inside of the rotor drum thingy and you won't be able to remove the rotors while the brake is engaged. So, make sure the vehicle can't accidentally move (wheel chocks, large blocks of wood, etc.).

There are lots of instructional pages/videos online, so finding a walk-through should be easy. It's been a little while since I did mine, but I think you'll need a 14mm wrench to remove the bolts securing the caliper to the caliper bracket, and a 17mm to remove the bracket itself.

If you do end up replacing the pads, you'll probably need to push the pistons back in so the thicker pads will fit over the rotor. You can borrow a brake caliper piston pusher-backer set from many auto parts chain stores (O'Reilly, Auto Zone, Parts Source; http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/di ... liper-tool) for free* (you pay full price up front, then get a full refund when you return it). Some people use a C-clamp, but if you can get the proper tool for nothing except time/fuel to/from the store, I'd recommend go with that. You'll also probably want to borrow a torque wrench, if you don't have one, to make sure everything is snug-but-not-too-snug. I don't have the torque specs off-hand, but I can find them if you need.

Oh, while you're in there, make sure the caliper pins are sliding properly. Sometimes the pins can seize, so the brakes are only being applied to one side of the rotor instead of squeezing it from both sides. Pins look like this: http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-trac ... ckfit=true

Exploded parts diagrams can be found on Subaru's site:
http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2003_B ... 62-02.html
http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2003_B ... 63-02.html
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anarchy1024
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Re: Brakes

Post by anarchy1024 »

Regarding the pads, I wanted something that was more resistant to fading under repetitive, aggressive braking, because of drives like this: http://www.meetup.com/Driving-lovers/ph ... #444895059

I got these pads for mine, but you don't need to go with something so expensive:
http://www.amazon.com/Hawk-Performance- ... B000COCO3K
http://www.amazon.com/Hawk-Performance- ... B000CO8XLC

If you do get new pads, follow the break-in procedure (industry calls it "bedding in"). Also, don't expect to do aggressive braking in the first 1000km (I think... again, check the MFR recommendations). I don't think a specific break-in procedure is necessary for rotors (someone can correct if I'm wrong), but braking performance is reduced until the rotors wear in, so check what the performance is like in a safe area.
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kamesama980
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Re: Brakes

Post by kamesama980 »

What do you mean by "don't expect to do aggressive braking in the first 1000km"? like they won't work or you shouldn't do it? Granted I haven't read the fine print on stuff like Hawk but they generally say run the break/bed in procedure and then you're good to go.

As for rotors, that's part of what the pad bed-in is for: Break in both the pads AND the rotors. You can't really do one without doing the other.

Most standard replacements (normal stuff from the parts store that doesn't come with specific directions for bed-in) I wouldn't worry too much about, the companies making them spend a lot of R&D on making them as idiot-proof as possible. Yes I'd run them a few miles before racing or canyon runs but I'd do that with ANY part to make sure it doesn't fail initially.
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anarchy1024
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Re: Brakes

Post by anarchy1024 »

kamesama980 wrote:What do you mean by "don't expect to do aggressive braking in the first 1000km"?
What I read was avoid aggressive braking for some distance (I thought 1000km, but can't remember now). Or maybe I'm thinking about tires. With mine, when I initially installed them, the braking performance was quite poor until they were broken in.
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anarchy1024
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Re: Brakes

Post by anarchy1024 »

1. After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop.
Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
2. At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal
quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times.
3. At or near race speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal
quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements
while car is in motion
4. Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool
to the touch.
5. If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car
immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal.
http://www.hawkperformance.com/sites/de ... edding.pdf
(Seems like this procedure is for race/sport applications, which canyon runs likely fall into...)

For regular urban street driving, this EBC reseller's recommendation is to avoid hard braking for the first 300-400 miles.
http://www.ebcredstuff.com/bedding_in_e ... _pads.html

More bedding-in recommendations:
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.
http://ebcbrakes.com/about-ebc/faqs/

Of course, check with the manufacturer of your parts for their official procedure.
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Re: Brakes

Post by Guacamole »

Well I ended up doing the rear rotors at my repair shop for $360. Needless to say they didn't get the right rotors on the first run, had one good one from a junked car, then I had to come back a few days later for different rotors & 2 days later the one "good" rotor is already rusted and squealing.

Learned by lesson, guess I'm doing it myself from now on! :evil: Just ordered the ones you suggested, Anarchy.
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Re: Brakes

Post by anarchy1024 »

That's the fear that I always have with paying a shop to do the work. I would be happy even paying a bit more knowing the person who does the work is doing it properly... Unfortunately, the person whom I trust the most to work on my car is still in Toronto.
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Re: Brakes

Post by Guacamole »

Yeah, I'm at basically my limit for trying to go the cheap way to avoid paying $1k at the stealership, but it looks like no one knows what they're doing, doesn't help that half of the mechanics around here have even ever seen a Baja before. :(
I'm going to go out on a limb & assume the new brake pads they put on are good to go (they're a NAPA sponsored repair shop so I'm guessing they used NAPA brand, they seem to be doing their job dealing with MD kamikaze spring animals), but I'm probably going to pick up some duralast ones from autozone or something. It's not like I'm going to be cornering at 70mph now that the suicide deer are back out in force. Any suggestions?

EDIT:
Well Amazon screwed up my order for the rotors & says that they'll be shipped out 1 month from now with 2-day shipping even though everything was in stock?? :shock: So I'm putting to bed this monster & am just going to bite the bullet & do it at the dealership. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
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Anomaly
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Re: Brakes

Post by Anomaly »

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anarchy1024
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Re: Brakes

Post by anarchy1024 »

Guacamole wrote: Well Amazon screwed up my order for the rotors & says that they'll be shipped out 1 month from now with 2-day shipping even though everything was in stock?? :shock: So I'm putting to bed this monster & am just going to bite the bullet & do it at the dealership. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
Aww.... that's disappointing. Hopefully they did a good job, or at least have a lifetime warranty. The set that Anomaly mentioned seems alright, although I personally wouldn't go for the drilled rotors. Besides not making any performance difference (according to everything I read), it's just not my style.
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Guacamole
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Re: Brakes

Post by Guacamole »

anarchy1024 wrote: Aww.... that's disappointing. Hopefully they did a good job, or at least have a lifetime warranty. The set that Anomaly mentioned seems alright, although I personally wouldn't go for the drilled rotors. Besides not making any performance difference (according to everything I read), it's just not my style.
The bill was actually not as bad as I hoped, ~$700 for 4 new rotors & 4 new pad sets (~$350 for 2 rear ones at the other shop), only took about 2 hours to do & I was able to watch Top Gear reruns on BBC in the lobby & they threw it a free wash. Also somehow managed to somehow get a senior citizen discount at age 22. :lol:
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