The $70 tonneau cover

General talk about the Subaru Baja.

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SnowOwl
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Re: The $70 tonneau cover

Post by SnowOwl »

canuck37 wrote:
SnowOwl wrote:I know this is a mega bump, but this looks pretty cool. I want to try one. Was a little weary of it lacking a locking mechanism. Has anyone considered installing a type of rotating mechanism, or something along he lines of a door handle? Would love to figure it out.

When I built mine, I did a lot of searching around for a locking mechanism that would actually work without significantly altering the tailgate, etc.. Basically, after talking to locksmiths and police types, I gave up, as they all said if someone wants in, they will get in regardless. I viewed this as more of a weatherproofing effort as opposed to security, so I put a lot into making it as water "resistant" as possible. I had posted the template in AutoCad file format on the forum years ago, but can't find it anymore. I used 1/2" marine grade plywood and vinyl, stainless piano hinge, etc., and it turned out just fine - for less than $100 as I recall now. Plus it was fun to do and a total one-of. If I had to do it again (I gave it away when I bought an ARE cap) I would go for using 3/16" black powdercoated aluminum checker-plate - pricey but lasts forever and looks good! Have fun....

Actually I was more or less wanting to secure my things down in the back when I go flying up the mountain or go off roading to a camp site. I wanted that sense of security knowing my stuff won't go flying all over the road when I'm driving and it gives me an uneasy feeling just thinking about hitting a bump and seeing the cover hover up a little. With that in mind, is it workable ? It would suck royally having my snowboard launch out the back haha. But I'll keep in kind what you said
canuck37
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Location: Seattle, WA

Re: The $70 tonneau cover

Post by canuck37 »

SnowOwl wrote:
canuck37 wrote:
SnowOwl wrote:I know this is a mega bump, but this looks pretty cool. I want to try one. Was a little weary of it lacking a locking mechanism. Has anyone considered installing a type of rotating mechanism, or something along he lines of a door handle? Would love to figure it out.

When I built mine, I did a lot of searching around for a locking mechanism that would actually work without significantly altering the tailgate, etc.. Basically, after talking to locksmiths and police types, I gave up, as they all said if someone wants in, they will get in regardless. I viewed this as more of a weatherproofing effort as opposed to security, so I put a lot into making it as water "resistant" as possible. I had posted the template in AutoCad file format on the forum years ago, but can't find it anymore. I used 1/2" marine grade plywood and vinyl, stainless piano hinge, etc., and it turned out just fine - for less than $100 as I recall now. Plus it was fun to do and a total one-of. If I had to do it again (I gave it away when I bought an ARE cap) I would go for using 3/16" black powdercoated aluminum checker-plate - pricey but lasts forever and looks good! Have fun....

Actually I was more or less wanting to secure my things down in the back when I go flying up the mountain or go off roading to a camp site. I wanted that sense of security knowing my stuff won't go flying all over the road when I'm driving and it gives me an uneasy feeling just thinking about hitting a bump and seeing the cover hover up a little. With that in mind, is it workable ? It would suck royally having my snowboard launch out the back haha. But I'll keep in kind what you said
What I did to make sure the lid stayed put was screw 4 eye screws into the underside of the top in each corner of the main panel (the one behind the bars doesn't move, if done properly) and then used 4 short bungee cords to hook onto the factory installed attachment points in the corners. Works like a damn and is very secure - and economical!. I never had any issues at all with the lid lifting or whatever.
superrupe
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Re: The $70 tonneau cover

Post by superrupe »

HUGE bump, but going to try this over the weekend.....
CameronO
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Re: The $70 tonneau cover

Post by CameronO »

Sabber wrote:I would have posted this earlier, but I have had some trouble with my account. Thanks for the positive feedback guys!

Ya I dont know about MASS production, but if people would be interested I would be willing to make them on a case by case basis.
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Outlawed
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Re: The $70 tonneau cover

Post by Outlawed »

Another bump for the original article and all the ideas going forward. Thought I'd try it in the spring, or maybe this winter.
Speaking of latches; I thought about a camper door latch. just cut it out to fit and then cut a hole to fit the latch pin in the inside of the tailgate, insert metal reinforcement into the latch pin hole. That way the handle would actually have a lock. Only drawback to that is the camper door latch is countersunk to flush fit with the door. Since the deck lid is lying flat, there would be a source for water to sit. I also thought about installing a drain line in the side of the latch to drain downward inside to the bed drain holes. Can't be rocket science. One question I didn't see answered: How do you attach the deck lid forward slab to the front of the bed? L-brackets, hinges or what?
canuck37
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Re: The $70 tonneau cover

Post by canuck37 »

I attached the smaller "forward" piece that goes up against the back window, using 2 screw eyes attached to the underside, and then a couple of turnbuckles to go down to the tie-downs on the bed. Once the turnbuckles were tightened, there was no leaking or chance of movement of that piece. Since the 2 cover pieces were joined with a stainless piano hinge, using this method to attach the front piece also provided a very secure attachment for the entire cover even if the bungee cords were inadvertently left unattached on the main portion......
Airborneguy
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Re: The $70 tonneau cover

Post by Airborneguy »

Preparing to attempt a similar build to those detailed here.

I still have the original tonneau, but it is in bad shape. I plan to use it to help make the pattern tracing easier. The front plastic part will be easy as I want to keep that part the same dimensions. The back leather part with require some adjustment since it connects outside of the bed.
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