Well, I'm back...

General talk about the Subaru Baja.

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Sarra
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Well, I'm back...

Post by Sarra » Fri Dec 28, 2018 2:56 am

So, I posted once before, when I had a 2005 Baja Sport. I traded it in. I was looking at getting a 2004 or 2005 STi, but that... Most certainly didn't happen. I came close to pulling the trigger on a 2005 STi, but it was... Junk. Sadly.

Anyway, I got a new Baja. This one's also a 2005. This one's turbo. omg My life feels complete now! Well, almost.

So far, I've done a LOT of repairs on this thing, and have more planned. Big repairs include replacing a bad injector, throwing out the stock airbox because it was broken, and trying to reseal the boost/vacuum lines that go from the intake manifold to the BCS, wastegate, and inlet. Which brings me to the first problem I'm having: This thing is hitting fuel cut. With a TD04. On a stock map.

I've retained most of the plastic T hoses in the BCS/Wastegate hoses, I managed to remove the one section of hose that had a hole in it, but I'm still running away on boost. Since adjusting the wastegate is out of the question (I wasted literally HOURS trying to find a guide on it, but every single post basically says 'don't touch it!' What do you do when someone else messed with it? Just leave it? WTF...), and the BCS is basically brand new, I'd like to replace the hoses themselves. Actually, I'd PREFER to remove them all, remove the nipple from the intake manifold, and run something better, like braided steel rubber hoses, but I'm not made of money, nor do I have the skill for tapping/threading everything anyway... So, besides going to Autozone and buying their rubber tubing, is there a good place to get replacement hoses? I'd prefer T-Bolt clamps as well... I'd like to eliminate the possibility of the hoses being the problem, then I can focus on the wastegate, or other possibilities... Speaking of this, does the TD04 require a pill? And, can the pill be missing cause overboosting? Like, 30 PSI overboosting...

I still have some issues to fix besides the overboosting. Luckily, it only does it in 3rd, 4th, 5th gears, and only at high load/full throttle around 4,000 RPM...

One issue I've got is the stock intercooler has maybe 3 fins straight, every other fin is pretty badly mashed. Is there an FMIC option? I'm going to guess... "Whatever fits a 2004 Legacy" is going to be the response, but it won't hurt to ask. Next issue I'm looking at is the engine mounts/trans mount, which is currently in the works (going to buy an aluminum torque brace with urethane bushings, Group N motor and trans mount, and hopefully something similar for the rear diff bushings).

I've also got a bit of a nasty electrical problem. Specifically, the vehicle had a garbage battery when I bought it, which thankfully was one of the first things I replaced, but my aftermarket headunit is giving up the ghost. It's got SatNav in the head unit, I was wondering if there was an option to replace it with a 6 disk in dash CD changer...

I'm also looking at replacing the turbo. The TD04 is mechanically fine, but it's a bit small for a 2.5, so I'm looking at getting a VF series STi turbo, and wondering what the best option would be, especially in regards to tuning. Once I get a new tactrix cable, I'll be looking into taking some time to figure out the overboosting issue, to see if I can just tune it out for now, but eventually, I would like a full exhaust, FMIC, and a VF turbo, which means tuning, and I'm my tuner.

Other issue is paint. It's white/silver, and I'm thinking about getting the damaged bits replaced (the passenger side door needs a new skin, and every plastic piece, including the side skirts, were trashed by a previous owner), then repainting it solid white. The hoods probably a write-off, as well, it's got a bit of a chunk of paint missing from a rock chip, so I was hoping to find a Carbon Fiber replacement, but just without the scoop (for FMIC), or with a STi bugeye style scoop (if I end up finding an STi TMIC, I might go that route).

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Guacamole
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by Guacamole » Sat Dec 29, 2018 1:41 pm

Welcome back!
You clearly know what you're doing and I'm of no help with the technical aspects, but...
Sarra wrote:
Fri Dec 28, 2018 2:56 am
One issue I've got is the stock intercooler has maybe 3 fins straight, every other fin is pretty badly mashed. Is there an FMIC option? I'm going to guess... "Whatever fits a 2004 Legacy" is going to be the response, but it won't hurt to ask.
Surprise! The 04-07 Forester XT intercooler should work since it's the same engine.
User is currently lost somewhere just East of Lyra

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walfredo
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by walfredo » Wed Jan 02, 2019 2:18 pm

-What do you mean when you say fuel cut?
-What do you mean by overboost? Is your boost spiking? (wastegate issue, vacuum/boost line issue, boost controller issue)
-Do you have a boost controller of any kind?
-Do you have a boost gauge? How much boost at full throttle? Steady consistent vacuum at idle?
-Do you have a wideband AF gauge? What numbers are you seeing under full boost?
-Does the car have a CEL on at the moment? Which codes?

Make sure you get all your CEL's addressed (if they exist) as those can typically point you in the right direction to getting the other issues solved.

The first thing I would do is I would be 100% sure there are no boost or vacuum leaks (Autozone rubber tubing of the correct diameter should be 100% fine to replace any old vacuum tubing). That means checking any and all tubing into and out of the intake manifold, all boost tubing from the turbo to the intercooler to the throttle body. Is your vacuum fluctuating at idle (vacuum leak) or is it steady? 0 vacuum at part throttle, full boost under full throttle? Is the boost lower/higher than normal?

Once you absolutely verify there are no boost or vacuum leaks, I would remove the boost controller (if you have one) and try to understand if the wastegate on the T04 turbo is working and set correctly. You said the boost control solenoid is brand new, so lets assume that its working fine. You may need to adjust the wastegate screw back down (someone may have turned up the boost in the past). If your car is overboosting this could be another cause (as well as the vacuum line running into the wastegate).

Third, fueling. Im not sure what you mean by fuel cut. If you are running stock boost (according to your boost gauge) and you are leaning out then that points to an issue with the fuel system (fuel pump, a/f sensor, fpr or fuel filter, etc) - assuming again, that you have verified that there are no vacuum or boost leaks.

Last but not least, check your MAF and diagnose whether its working properly or not as this will cause all sorts of other issues. A turbo car cant run well if it cant measure the amount of air coming in. Most cars will go into limp mode if the MAF is not working, among other things (perhaps this is what you are calling "fuel cut"???).

I would focus on getting the car running 100% perfectly STOCK before adding in additional variables to this complex equation - that way it is a process of elimination if you know everything was working correctly as a baseline...

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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by walfredo » Wed Jan 02, 2019 3:33 pm

Here is a good article for you to read and check all your mechanical hardware:
https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/s ... stem+Works

Still gotta look for any vacuum leaks outside of the turbocharger system as well though

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kamesama980
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by kamesama980 » Wed Jan 02, 2019 8:07 pm

There are a few gotchas that might have happened and there are a few red flags I see in your post. (there are a few places I took a shortcut to not write a dissertation)

#1 Get the stock airbox or get it tuned. The maf sensor reads by some elecrical voodoo and outputting a voltage, the ECM estimates airflow by looking up the voltage vs airflow in a table, that table's calculated based on the stock airbox and pipe. If you change the airbox and pipe, the calculations off which means AFR is off which means you might be doing things a lot worse than fuel cut. get the vacuum line plumbing back to stock

#2: verify you actually have a stock setup. TD04. full, catted, muffled exhaust. All the vacuum lines and the restricter pill too, it's not the size of the turbo that requires it but the way the BCS is plumbed... it just makes the whle system work. You have a used car, lord only knows what the previous owner put it through. IF the PO messed with it, yes put it back but with the electronic boost control system, the electronics will compensate for the mechanical changes (or try to anyway) gutted cats, open exhaust... less restriction on the exhaust side means the turbo spools faster than the ECM is calibrated for. If you want to check on boost, disconnect the stock vacuum lines (and the restricter pill) and run a hose straight from the compresser nipple to the wastegate, you'll run on just the WG spring. If it still overboosts then you have a turbo issue. If it runs fine then you can start looking at the BCS and hoses. Yes you need the restricter pill, no it probably won't overboost but boost will be all over the place

rubber vacuum lines are perfectly fine for more boost than the base engine can survive. Spring clamps are also a better choice because
. A. they give even tension around the circumference of the hose.
. B. they give even force when thermal expansion comes into play: worm gear or T-bolt clamps are either snug when cold and too tight when hot or loose when cold and proper when hot.
. C. that's what's suggested by OEMs and the hose makers for the above reasons.

bent Intercooler fins: most auto parts stores sell a tool called a radiator comb. you can use it to carefully comb the fins straight. no big deal. While most people say if you make X boost or X power you need an IC but what you should really measure is temperature and pressure drop. It needs to be able to shed enough heat to lower intake temps to a safe level. It also needs to be able to flow the requisite air without causing a restriction. If you do go VF39 and STI ECM, may as well go with the STI intercooler as well... subaru put them together for a reason and you're going to be running it hotter and harder in a 500lb heavier car.

tuning. I have a tactrix cable, romraider, etc and it's fun but don't expect to find anything obvious or easy about it lol. The PO of my did the VF39, STI intercooler, and STI ECM for tunability though since then they've added support for the turbo bajas so one less thing for you to buy.

Radio: depends how the PO installed it... If you're getting wonky electrical bugs, who knows what's inside the console behind it. If they did it right, just unplug the old one and plug the new one in with the right wiring harness. If they hacked it up... god help you.

Body... good luck with that. Since you mention it... I don't suppose you're anywhere near the midwest? I happen to have been considering selling my STI intercooler and hood with aftermarket oversized scoop in favor of air-to-water intercooler. IC looks like it was parted out from an accident car but holds 20 psi just fine as far as I can tell.

jeez, that got long...
-Russell
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"
03 sport 5mt
05 turbo 5mt vf39 and other STI bits, 3" turbo-back

Sarra
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by Sarra » Fri Jan 04, 2019 2:35 am

Alrighty... I'll give some more details on the issue I've got.

I bought the thing stock. In hindsight, it's been modded and put back to stock, though. There was a bush guard on it at one point (two notches cut out on the bottom of the bumper), and it probably had a different turbo at one point (there's no heat shield on the TD04).

So, when I bought it, on the drive home, I was going up a hill (I had to drive from Portland, OR, to Medford, OR, which is 300 miles of interstate with some pretty nice grades on it), and there's a 'bang', engine cut out, and CEL came on.

I got it home safely, just stayed off the throttle in the hills.

Next day, I was going through the receipts that the previous owner left in the glove box when they traded the truck in. I saw a $419 receipt for BCS replacement at the dealership. So, I wander out, pop the hood, and I'm looking at the BCS to make sure it's hooked up and functional, and I find the boost/vacuum hose that goes to the wastegate actuator has a freaking massive tear in it. I removed it and replaced it with a new piece of hose, and everything was fine, or so it seemed.

After driving it for a few days, I noticed the idle was really rough, and the engine felt like it was only running on 3 cylinders. I bought a laptop and a Tactrix cable, and saw that cylinder #4 was showing lots of counts on the roughness monitor. I pulled the spark plugs, all 4 were brand new, but replaced them anyway. Then, I googled to make sure cylinder #4 was on the driverside, and I swapped the coil pack to cylinder #1, front passenger side. The rough idle didn't change at all.

I purchased 4 used injectors from a 2005 Baja Turbo, yellow side feeds, and I pulled the injector from #4, and replaced it. The idle was fixed, and my fuel trims at idle went back to a reasonable value.

After fixing that, when I floor it in 3rd, 4th, or 5th, it would go 'bang!', and pop a CEL. I had this pulled as a P0244, wastegate performance code.

I purchased a boost/vacuum gauge, and hooked it up boost/vacuum hose that runs to the BPV using a T, and watched the boost levels. The boost never went over 12PSI, but even so, it triggered fuel cut and threw that code.

Unfortunately, my OpenPort2.0 suffered a casualty, and I now have to buy a new one (surface mount resistor fell off). I'm stuck now, trying to figure out if this is a genuine problem with the boost control, or if the MAP sensor is garbage.

In the process of doing all of this, I broke the damn nipple right off the EVAP purge solenoid, and now I'm waiting on a new one of those to come in. ALL of the vacuum hoses for the EVAP system were just... Crunchy, I'm replacing everything I can access without having to pull the intake manifold off.

------------

As for the intake, the cone adapter I'm using was the one I used on my 2002 WRX. I ran the RomRAIDER MAF adjustment tool on that intake adapter, and it actually didn't adjust anything, because it is the proper diameter, and the filter is held far enough in front of it to minimize turbulence. I'm 100% comfortable running it, and I won't replace it, as it isn't broken. My 2002 WRX had close to 200,000 miles on it, and I tuned it with RomRaider when it had 80,000 miles on it. I know what I'm doing, that car ran 17 PSI of boost for it's entire life with me, and only at the very end was it having any kind of issues. The Baja is more of the same for me, I'm just trying to figure out why it's having the problems it's having, and as a slow process, I'm just taking my time with it. I was planning on tuning the Baja to push 18 PSI of boost, and to tune it incrementally... When I first got it, it was running all the way up to 30 PSI when the hose was torn, and even pushing 28 PSI, it wasn't knocking at all.

-----------

Okay, one diagnostic tool I've used on my WRX, and tried on the Baja as well, is to unplug the MAF sensor and let the vehicle idle while warm. If you have a vacuum leak, the idle is higher than stock. On my WRX, I used that to figure out I had a vacuum leak, on the Baja, I did this and the idle was normal, so I'm assuming that the problem is most likely either the MAP sensor is bad, or I have a boost leak that isn't a vacuum leak (IE, it seals in vacuum, leaks in boost).

If I pull the connector on the MAP sensor, will the ECU default to a limp mode, and run wastegate pressure for boost? This might show me if the wastegate arm is adjusted properly, as well as let me see how it boosts without the computer playing with the BCS. If not, I'll have to figure out something else, maybe a map with 7 PSI target boost? The boost control system seems to be different from my WRX's system...

----------

FInally, about the electrical system... The current head unit is a double din, Kenwood unit with Garmin GPS. It's nice, but... It's impossible to turn the backlight off, or down, and the GPS is kinda... Not useful for me. It's wired up for hands free calling using Bluetooth, but... I think I've made like 3 phone calls in the last 6 months, and none of them while driving. Then there's the clock. It's got a radio set clock (self setting), and every morning, when I start up and start driving to work, the clock on the Head Unit shows a totally random time. After it gets GPS signal or receives the radio signal with the time, it sets, and usually, it stays set, but sometimes, it runs fast or slow (it'll be 3:44 pm, and as I drive, it'll set the time. Around 10 minutes later, it might show 4:02 pm, instead of 3:54 pm, then it'll realize, and reset the time to 3:54. Makes me think that there's some component damage in the unit). If I could shut off or just dim the back light, then I'd be fine with it, I have a clock on the IP, so the clock isn't a big deal, but combine the two issues and it makes it less useful for me. I've considered wiring up a switch so I can just disable the unit at night (I work an afternoon shift, I usually go home after dark, so this is a daily annoyance for me), but I am at the point where if I dig deep enough in the wiring to get to a wire to solder in a switch, I'd rather just pull the unit and replace it.

I've been sick lately, and getting frustrated a bit easily, so this down time waiting for parts has been somewhat good, I think. I'm planning on modding the piss out of this, but the receipts show the transmission was opened up at one point (apparently, the PO broke reverse). Coupled with the few missing components, body damage, and odd issues it's had, I think a kid owned this thing before, and beat the crap out of it. D: If it wasn't such a rare vehicle, I think I would have genuinely given up on it by now and gone with something else... But, I'm already a couple hundred bucks into this thing, and it's not terrible, so I'll just keep chipping away at this until I've got it running properly, then I can focus on getting more power from it.

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kamesama980
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by kamesama980 » Mon Jan 07, 2019 9:05 am

OK, some of that was based on not knowing your experience with RR and tuning.

I suspect that you boom/misfire/limp is not fuel cut but a major misfire. with electronic throttle control and modern(ish) electronics, it should be more like the engine just doesn't go any further and won't throw codes for other stuff.

Your 02 WRX didn't have throttle-by-wire did it? that makes some things act different... idle control for example: with a separate idle control valve and throttle, under MAP engine management, a boost leak will create high idle (but only after the control valve is maxed out closed).With e-throttle, the throttle body is the idle valve too and the idle control can command 0-100% throttle (mechanically, it'll throw a code before it gets too crazy tho... except it won't because having the MAF unplugged precludes other AF codes lol)

Boost control: there should be a vacuum line from the boost reference nipple to the wastegate. In that hose there should be Tee going to the BCS and a restrictor pill in the hose on the reference side, before the Tee. The second port on the BCS should be plumbed back to the intake after the MAF.
-Russell
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"
03 sport 5mt
05 turbo 5mt vf39 and other STI bits, 3" turbo-back

Sarra
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by Sarra » Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:02 am

kamesama980 wrote:
Mon Jan 07, 2019 9:05 am
OK, some of that was based on not knowing your experience with RR and tuning.

I suspect that you boom/misfire/limp is not fuel cut but a major misfire. with electronic throttle control and modern(ish) electronics, it should be more like the engine just doesn't go any further and won't throw codes for other stuff.

Your 02 WRX didn't have throttle-by-wire did it? that makes some things act different... idle control for example: with a separate idle control valve and throttle, under MAP engine management, a boost leak will create high idle (but only after the control valve is maxed out closed).With e-throttle, the throttle body is the idle valve too and the idle control can command 0-100% throttle (mechanically, it'll throw a code before it gets too crazy tho... except it won't because having the MAF unplugged precludes other AF codes lol)

Boost control: there should be a vacuum line from the boost reference nipple to the wastegate. In that hose there should be Tee going to the BCS and a restrictor pill in the hose on the reference side, before the Tee. The second port on the BCS should be plumbed back to the intake after the MAF.
So, it'll go boom and throw the CEL at 2,300 RPM, or at 4,500 RPM. Logging, I see like 19 PSI in my logs, but my mechanical boost gauge only shows 12 PSI. When it does it, the vehicle loses ALL power for a second, then comes back if I leave my foot to the floor. I'm 99% sure that the ECU is cutting fuel (IDC to 0%). I need to get a fuel pressure gauge and make sure I've got good fuel pressure, that's the next thing...

Ah, yes, thanks for pointing that out, about the DBW vs cable throttle. I'm going to continue to look for boost leaks, then... I might have to go to a place that will give me access to a fog machine. If I have a post MAF, pre turbo leak, it might be giving me some of these problems... I'll have to check the turbo inlet; That was an item I replaced on my WRX.

And boost control... Okay, so the one hose I have yet to replace between the turbo and the intake manifold has the Pill in it. I suspect that I will be removing that hose, and I think I can transplant the pill to a new hose. Hopefully it's metal. D: I've never dealt with a pill... Though, if the previous owner... Huh. There's evidence the previous owner had a larger turbo on this, I wonder if they left the pill out when they 'put it back to mostly stock'. I'll just pick one up when I'm at the dealer next time.

I have one final question, about EVAP: I have been replacing the EVAP hoses up by the throttle, but I removed the solenoid (the one with 3 vacuum hoses going to it), and forgot which way it goes. Does the > E/G point at the turbo inlet, or at the Purge Solenoid valve? I've replaced all of the hoses, in the process of which, I broke the Purge Solenoid valve, and have had to order a new one. >_>

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kamesama980
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by kamesama980 » Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:41 pm

haha can't help with the evap hoses... there should be a sticker on the underside of the hood showing the routing though.
-Russell
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"
03 sport 5mt
05 turbo 5mt vf39 and other STI bits, 3" turbo-back

Sarra
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by Sarra » Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:36 pm

I'm fine on the routing. As I took each hose off, I put a new one on. The Solenoid has two nipples; Top goes to the intake manifold, bottom goes to a T. It's the secondary valve, that I can't remember which way it goes... If I get an EVAP code, I'll just switch it I guess.

I'm still waiting on parts...

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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by walfredo » Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:16 am

I would double check that you have the OEM size restrictor pill - I think the correct size is in the link I posted earlier. If someone modded the car, they may have changed out the pill and could possibly now be the cause of your wastegate code. Just a thought.
I suspect that you boom/misfire/limp is not fuel cut but a major misfire
I second this, but you should have a CEL for a misfire if thats the case... You never told us if you actually checked your CEL codes (you only mentioned the wastegate code, but were there any others???)

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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by Sarra » Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:54 am

No, there was only one code. I can get it to pop up any time I want, I just get going 40+ and floor it in pretty much any gear over 3rd.

I got my Baja back on the road today, that stupid solenoid valve took 2 weeks to get in. I replaced all of the EVAP hoses at the front of the engine, and it seems to run just fine right now. Next friday, I'll have the replacement pill and a boost hose for it to live in, so I can swap that out and see if it helps my P0244 situation.

Also, next friday, I will be ordering a new OpenPort2.0 to replace the one that broke on me, so in around 2-3 weeks, I'll be able to start logging again. I can say, after replacing that injector, this thing runs a LOT smoother. :D

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kamesama980
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by kamesama980 » Sat Jan 12, 2019 6:43 pm

The lack of a code is not conclusive that the condition doesn't exist. When you get into real engine management programming, misfires (and knock) are very grey area. Interestingly, looking at a time/pressure curve or even listening on a mic it's pretty easy for a human to discern but amazingly hard to make a computer do it reliably due to the variety of causes, contributing conditions, and most importantly severity. As long as it meets certain conditions, it's pretty easy. It's also pretty easy to have a misfire not meet those conditions.

Sarra wrote:
Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:36 pm
I'm fine on the routing. As I took each hose off, I put a new one on. The Solenoid has two nipples; Top goes to the intake manifold, bottom goes to a T. It's the secondary valve, that I can't remember which way it goes... If I get an EVAP code, I'll just switch it I guess.

I'm still waiting on parts...
Might be your terminology but if it really is plumbed to the manifold, that's not right. One hose from the BCS should go to the T between the WG and the comp housing, the other end should go to the turbo inlet pipe, near the manifold but not the manifold.

If you do have it right, ignore the rest, it's just me rambling while watching TV. It needs to have near-atmospheric pressure after the MAF to vent the boost opening the WG. If you have it plumbed to the manifold, the vacuum present sets up a different pressure ratio situation between the turbo, inlet, and manifold... at light throttle you won't make enough flow to spin the turbo up enough for the problem to matter. At WOT, you'll be limited as to how much boost it'll make because the venting of boost pressure from the WG actuator is what lets you build more than WG-only boost. rather than atmospheric pressure on the other end of the vent, it sees boost again so the only venting is the pressure drop from the comp to the manifold. At Part throttle things get funny because the actual pressure in the manifold vs the turbo outlet matter... as the turbo starts to build boost but the throttle restricts it from entering the manifold/engine, the manfiold vacuum will hold the WG shut even harder than normal because the BCS is open venting boost from the WG. As that happens, it may take more time to close and start limiting boost pressure causing your boost spike before it gets things under control.
-Russell
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"
03 sport 5mt
05 turbo 5mt vf39 and other STI bits, 3" turbo-back

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kamesama980
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by kamesama980 » Sat Jan 12, 2019 6:52 pm

-Russell
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"
03 sport 5mt
05 turbo 5mt vf39 and other STI bits, 3" turbo-back

Sarra
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Re: Well, I'm back...

Post by Sarra » Sun Jan 13, 2019 1:43 am

Looks, on the vehicle, like that comes off the intake manifold, instead of the turbo itself.

Either way, I have a new pill ordered.

Which is kind of ironic, because it's not doing the bang/CEL thing right now. At least not when I dove it today. I didn't drive it that hard, though...

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